Revisiting St. Margaret, Hales

Thatcher's at work

Arriving at St Margaret, Hales, is always like greeting an old friend - only, on this occasion, my friend was busy having a haircut. The future of any church is only as good as its roof, so it was good to see the thatcher's hard at work on this smudgy-skied Autumnal day. So, not being able to get inside the church as I had intended, I will share some images from my archive instead. 

With its round-tower, lack of aisles and semi-circular apse, Hales is the archetypal Romanesque Norman period rural parish church. In more affluent areas of Norfolk these early churches were replaced during later building campaigns - particularly during the 'Great Rebuild' during the fifteenth century. However, in this area of south-east Norfolk, with its cluster of round tower churches, relative poverty inadvertently ensured the survival of these historical gems. Unlike its 'sister' church at nearby Heckingham, Hales has no aisles, and, thus, retains its essential Norman floorplan. The insertion of larger windows in the apse and nave during later centuries means that the interior of the church is lighter than the original. I imagine that, dimly lit with the original lancets, the Norman chancel must have had an intimate cave-like quality akin to that at St. Edmund, Fritton. 

Semi-circular Norman apse with early fourteenth century window inserted at east end

It would be remiss of me to write about Hales without mentioning that Norman doorway. Indeed, one of my principal reasons for re-visiting the church was to take a decent photo of it. However, with the builders on site this proved impossible. In the absence of this, here is a lovely batique depiction of the doorway by my friend, Maggie Robertson, who gifted it to me several years ago. 

Maggie's work

Finally, when I return here I will be sure to look at the concentration of apotropaic crosses carved around the doorway. The long departed souls who carefully carved these intended them to ward off evil spirits. If the lovely, warm atmosphere I have always felt in this special church is anything to go by then their work was not in vein. 

© Munro Tweeder-Harris